Welcome to our Interesting Info & Auto FAQ's Section. Here you will find Interesting info in the form of Questions & Answers asked by real automotive customers like you.  Please find the area or topic you wish to read and learn more about and click on the link below, it will then goto that topic for you.

Interesting Info & Auto FAQ's:

1. Good Air Conditioner Questions
2. Good Pump, Belt, Coolant, and Gauge Questions…
3. Good Brake Questions…
4. Good Electrical Questions…
5. Good Oil Questions…
6. Good Tire and Alignment Questions…
7. Good Tire and Alignment Questions…
8. Good Transmission Questions…
9. Good Windshield Questions…
10. Good Miscellaneous Automotive Questions…

"Good Air Conditioner Questions…"
Q. Last fall my air conditioner did not seem to be very effective, I thought I would wait until spring to have it replaced. What usually causes the air conditioner to blow just cool air?

A. Many things can cause an air conditioner to just blow cool, not cold, air. Typically it is a sign that the system is low on refrigerant. However other causes could be a blockage in the system filter (orifice tube), a faulty pressure switch, a cooling fan problem. Some vehicles are equipped with a separate fan just for the air conditioner. It could be something as simple as debris in front of or between the radiator and condenser. Your regular technician should be able to inspect your air conditioner system and solve your problem.

Q. When I use my air conditioner I get a very strong musty odor. Is there anything that can be done to eliminate this smell?

A. This is a common problem that customers complain about in many different types of vehicles. The first component to check is the air conditioner drain. This eliminates condensation that forms when the air conditioner is used. If the drain is clear, there is a procedure that can be performed to disinfect the air conditioner's evaporator and help eliminate this odor.

"Good Pump, Belt, Coolant, and Gauge Questions…"

Q. I have a 1994 Olds Achieva, and it keeps wearing out serpentine belts. Every 15,000 miles I have to replace the belt. What would make the belt go bad so often?

A. On today’s vehicle’s one belt runs everything. There is a tensioner that is spring loaded and controls the proper tension on the belt. These tensioners can seize up or actually not hold any tension on the belt, causing it to wear out prematurely. You can remove the belt and check the tensioner for movement. Also check the other pulleys such as the water pump, alternator and power steering for any looseness or excessive tightness.

Q. How do I know when it’s time to have my vehicle tuned up?

A. Many consumers today are confused by the 100,000-mile tune up advertisements. Some tell tale signs that your vehicle need attention in this area are: hard starting, stalling, poor fuel mileage, rough running, shaking at idle, and/or poor engine performance. There are also many definitions of a tune up. First of all check your owner’s manual to see what is the recommended service interval for your particular vehicle. Chances are that recommended replacement for items like your air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve and certain ignition components will be every 15,000-20,000 miles. Typically, depending on the grade of spark plug, these will be required every 30,000 to 60,000 miles up to 100,000 miles for the premium grade spark plugs.

Q. I have a 1991 Buick Regal with a V-6. I had the water pump replaced recently because it was leaking. Since then another problem has developed: at times the car will stall and won’t restart until I let it sit for a while. It’s impossible to depend on the car. Could the water pump have anything to do with this stalling condition?

A. My first reaction would be to say it is a coincidence. But after researching your particular vehicle, it could be related. There is a crankshaft sensor located directly underneath the water pump. This sensor may have been damaged in the process of replacing the pump. I suggest taking your vehicle back to the shop where the work was done. Explain to them what you have had done to the car and its current problem This sensor can be tested. If it’s O.K., you may need to have a few other diagnostic tests performed. As with any diagnostic work, the more information you can give your technician the better .

Q. When should I service my cooling system?

A. At my shop we recommend to our customers that the cooling system be serviced every 2 years or 24,000 miles. (car manufacturers say 3 years or 36,000 miles). There are additives in antifreeze that provide alkaline to help neutralize internal corrosion before it begins. We are finding that after 2 years the antifreeze starts to lose the corrosion resistance. When having your cooling system serviced, it should be flushed to help remove debris that may have accumulated in the system. It should then be refilled with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and clean water. This is also a great time for a visual inspection of your belts and hoses.

Q. When my '92 Ford Tempo is running I hear a loud humming noise from the rear. Is this noise something I should worry about?

A. For many years now, since the arrival of fuel injection, vehicles require much more fuel pressure and volume to operate. Because of this need, electric fuel pumps have been placed in the fuel tanks. I suspect the noise you are hearing is from your electric fuel pump.

You may consider having a fuel pump pressure and volume test performed. This will let you know the condition of your fuel pump based on the vehicle's factory specifications.

On a fuel injected vehicle you can take a few preventive measures to protect your electric fuel pump. One is to change your fuel filter every 12 months or 15,000 miles whichever comes first. The other is to keep your gas tank at least 1/2 full. The gas acts as an insulator to keep your electric pump running cool and efficient.

Q. My vehicle just turned 60,000 miles and my technician advised me to replace my timing belt. Is this really necessary?

A. Most car manufacturers recommend that timing belts be replaced around 60,000 miles. Check your owner's manual to find out what your manufacturer suggests. Timing belts (rubber) have replaced timing chains (metal). Timing belts are lighter and quieter than timing chains; however, like other components, they do require some maintenance. Timing belts should be replaced before they break.

There are two types of engines: "free running" and "interference." If your vehicle has a free running engine and your timing belt breaks, your car will quit running. Usually it just requires timing belt replacement to repair your vehicle. However, if your vehicle has an interference engine and the belt breaks, you stand a good chance of causing internal engine damage to your valves. This can get very costly. It is much better to prevent a problem than to wait until one occurs. I would suggest you listen to your technician and have the timing belt replaced.

Q. I have noticed that my temperature gauge is moving closer to the hot mark than it used to--it normally stayed right at mid range. What could cause this?

A. First check for any coolant leaks around the radiator, hoses, water pump gaskets etc. Check the thermostat to make sure it's opening properly and not stuck shut. Inspect the fan belt to make sure it's tight and not slipping. Examine the front of the radiator and make certain it's not full of debris and dirt. These are just a few basic things to check.

Remember when working with your cooling system, never open the radiator cap when the engine is hot. This can be very dangerous and lead to severe burns!

"Good Brake Questions…"

Q. My dad plans to get a brake overhaul on his motor home. His mechanic recommends draining the original brake fluid and using the silicone type. It costs more but I guess it has benefits. What do you think?

A. Silicone brake fluid is less vulnerable to contamination from moisture, thereby reducing the chance of rusting and corrosion (Note: If the vehicle has ABS (anti-lock braking system) silicone based fluid is not recommended.) When it is used only occasionally, as often is the case with a motor home, metal brake components are more vulnerable to corrosion.

Q. The yellow ABS light comes on for my brakes. Does that mean I won't have any brakes?

A. When the yellow ABS light comes on that means something for the ABS system is not functioning properly, therefore your ABS system will not function. The ABS (anti-lock brake system) is designed to work in panic stops. It keeps the wheels from locking up and skidding. Your regular brakes will function the way they were designed to work from the factory. ABS is, however, a very important safety feature and I would recommend you have the system checked by your shop as soon as you can.

While we’re on this subject, I’d like to emphasize the importance of clean, uncontaminated brake fluid. Most brake experts recommend changing fluid every two years or 30,000 miles to prolong the life of the hydraulic components. Car manufacturers recommend replacing fluid when servicing brakes. With ABS systems clean fluid is especially important.

"Good Electrical Questions…"

Q. I own a 1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo. At times my car will not start (won’t crank), but I have radio and headlights. It is a very intermittent problem. This is very frustrating; yesterday after I got a ride to work my husband went out, and the car started. Do you have any ideas?

A. Believe it or not we have several customers with your exact concern. There are a few things you can do to help determine the problem. However, because the condition is intermittent, it could be difficult. Your vehicle is equipped with a VSS (vehicle security system) with a computer chip in the key. Sometimes, especially if you use the key often, it can wear out. Exchange keys with your husband and try his for a while. The other possibilities include a battery or starter problem. At a repair shop they can load test the battery and also check the starter for excessive amperage draw. The best thing that can happen is for the car to not start while it’s in the shop.

Q. I have a 1995 Mercury Grand Marquis and the interior fuse blows intermittently. Sometimes it will last up to a week, other times only a day. Any ideas?

A. Intermittent problems usually are the most frustrating and difficult for both the vehicle owner and technician. The first thing that my technician would do is a search for any TSB’s (Technical Service Bulletins.) This would advise him if the manufacturer had a consistent complaint and repair for this problem. The next step would be to find out exactly what other accessories are on that circuit and disconnect the controlled items one at a time. It may turn out to be something as simple as a doorjamb switch. Be patient; I’m sure your problem can be solved with a little time and technology.

Q. My car is four years old and when I took it in for service, they told me my battery was marginal. Since winter is over, should I wait until next winter to replace it?

A. Four years is the average life for a battery. Unless you enjoy being stranded, replacement of your battery is a good preventive maintenance item. A weak battery can affect your electrical and computer system. Hot summer weather can have the same effect or worse than winter weather on a car battery. Take the plunge . . . buy a new battery. When having the battery installed it's important that the battery cables are cleaned and then protected with anti-corrosive spray. Your technician will also go through a procedure to reprogram your computer system. Some cars require that this be done with a scan tool. Make sure someone qualified replaces it for you.

Q. My car has a driver's side air bag. Sometimes while driving down the road the air bag light flashes on and off. What does this mean?

A. Your air bag system is controlled by a computer and a series of sensors. In order for your safety restraint system to function properly, every component must be in working order. When the air bag light flashes on and off it can mean there is a malfunction in one or more system components. You need to take your vehicle into a shop that has the ability to access the system's trouble codes. When the system is not functioning properly it can prohibit the air bag from activating if needed.

Q. I have a 1995 Ford Escort, and I get a moisture build-up in my headlights. Is there anything I can do to prevent this?

A. Your car is equipped with what is called composite headlights. This means the headlight lens is a sealed unit, and the headlight bulb generally screws in the back part of the lens. When the headlight burns out only the bulb is replaced. Sometimes the weather seal goes bad, or the lens gets a small stone hole in it that allows moisture to accumulate. Sometimes the lens can be dried out with a hair dryer or heat gun (carefully -- not to melt the lens), then a small vent hole properly positioned can be installed to help keep the moisture from re-occurring. If this does not cure the problem the lens may need to be replaced.

"Good Oil Questions…"

Q. My car is using about a quart of oil in 300 miles. It has good compression and gets good gas mileage. No signs of leakage. Somebody suggested it could be a bad PCV valve. Does that sound right? It's a V-8.

A. Could be. A faulty PCV valve could allow oil to pass from the crankcase into the combustion chamber. Another common cause of oil burning is a leaking valve stem seal. These are designed to be supple and cling to the valve stem as it goes up and down. If one or more of these shrinks a bit and has become brittle it can allow oil to work itself into the combustion chamber where it burns off.

Q. When I get my oil changed they always put a "next service due" sticker on my windshield. It tells me to change my oil after another 3,000 miles. I checked my owner’s manual, which says I should change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles. Who do I believe?

A. Congratulations on having gone to the trouble of looking your question in the owner’s manual. You may have noted the manufacturer’s definition of "severe service," more stop and go driving and other factors that require more frequent oil changes. The longer interval is based on ideal conditions, i.e. steady driving in moderate temperatures. More often than not, the 3,000-mile oil/filter change is a good idea for extending the life of your vehicle. It’s inexpensive insurance; stick with it.

Q. I have a 1988 Ford F150 Pickup with duel fuel tanks. Sometimes the oil pressure gauge is very high and sometimes it is very low. Also, the fuel gauges will not come off full until the tank is below 1/4 tank. If I switch the tank from front to rear the oil pressure gauge will go up and down. I am worried that this will be a very expensive repair.

A. It sounds like you may have a problem in the ground circuit of the instrument panel. If one accessory affects another, you need to look at what they share in common. In most cases it’s usually the ground circuit.

Q. I don't put many miles on my vehicle, how often should I change my oil?

A. In our shop, we like to see our customers every 3 months or 3,000 miles whichever comes first. An oil change is a very inexpensive protector considering the cost of a replacement engine. This also gets a technician under the hood of your vehicle to look for any future needs or problems that may be developing. You can refer to your owner's manual for the recommended maintenance schedule. Look for both "Severe Service" and "Normal Service" intervals and find what best describes your driving habits. "Severe Service" includes: driving on many short trips, driving in hot weather in stop and go traffic, driving at high speeds in hot weather, and towing a trailer. If you don't drive under any of these conditions, you could use the 6-month or 3,000 mile schedule, whichever comes first. Remember, with proper maintenance, most vehicles will go 100,000 miles or more!

"Good Tire and Alignment Questions…"

Q. I have a 1996 Ford Thunderbird, and I am always worried about my tires. They always look low to me. What is the proper inflation for my tires?

A. Today’s vehicles come with many different size tires. Chances are your vehicle has a 70 series tire, which typically is a low profile tire. What this means is that it may appear to be low on air but be inflated properly (an optical illusion). If you look in your owner’s manual or in the driver’s doorjamb it will tell you how much air your tires need. Typically you can vary a few pounds up from the specification. If you increase the pressure it will give you a stiffer ride.

If your vehicle is equipped with alloy wheels you could lose air from around the rims. Periodically these rims may need to be cleaned and resealed. You should check your tire pressure on a regular basis or before any long trip. Both over-inflation and under-inflation can cause the tires to wear unevenly. One tip I will also pass along is that you should always check your tire pressure when the tires are cold.

Q. I purchased tires for my 1995 Toyota Camry less than 30,000 miles ago and they are wearing on the edges. Is this a defect in the tire or is something wrong with my car?

A. Uneven tire wear can be caused by a couple of things. Worn suspension and steering com-ponents, improper tire inflation or wheel misalignment are some possibilities. The most common cause is worn steering or loose suspension components. When you have worn parts this can also change the vehicle's alignment. Both tire over-inflation and under-inflation can cause uneven wear. For a tire to roll down the road with the least resistance, it must be aligned to the road, parallel to the other three wheels, straight with the chassis and accurately inflated. When you have a front wheel drive vehicle, both the front and rear wheel alignment are adjustable. My suggestion is to take your vehicle to your technician and have your front steering and suspension components checked and then talk to your technician for wheel alignment. An educated technician should be able to tell by the way your tires are wearing what is causing the tire wearing condition.

Q. At about 55 to 60 m.p.h. I feel a shake in my steering wheel. What could cause this?

A. The first thing to look at would be the tires. You could possibly have one or more tires either out of balance or the actual belt of the tire may be separating. If the tires are OK, the next step would be to have a front end inspection for any worn components. I have a feeling by the way you described the shake being felt in the steering wheel that a tire problem will show up.

Q. My front end shimmies especially at low speeds. Does this mean I need a front end alignment?

A. Not necessarily. Alignments are usually performed to cure a pulling condition or to correct poor handling. If your car shakes or shimmies as you are driving, chances are it's caused by a worn tire or defective tread structure. It also can be due to a faulty front end component. Have your front end inspected. Your technician will road test the vehicle. They should inspect tie rods and ball joints for excessive wear. He or she will most likely inspect your tires for worn/uneven areas and for belt separation. If you do need new tires or have a worn end component then an alignment will usually be performed once these items are replaced.

"Good Tire and Alignment Questions…"

Q. I have a 1996 Ford Thunderbird, and I am always worried about my tires. They always look low to me. What is the proper inflation for my tires?

A. Today’s vehicles come with many different size tires. Chances are your vehicle has a 70 series tire, which typically is a low profile tire. What this means is that it may appear to be low on air but be inflated properly (an optical illusion). If you look in your owner’s manual or in the driver’s doorjamb it will tell you how much air your tires need. Typically you can vary a few pounds up from the specification. If you increase the pressure it will give you a stiffer ride.

If your vehicle is equipped with alloy wheels you could lose air from around the rims. Periodically these rims may need to be cleaned and resealed. You should check your tire pressure on a regular basis or before any long trip. Both over-inflation and under-inflation can cause the tires to wear unevenly. One tip I will also pass along is that you should always check your tire pressure when the tires are cold.

Q. I purchased tires for my 1995 Toyota Camry less than 30,000 miles ago and they are wearing on the edges. Is this a defect in the tire or is something wrong with my car?

A. Uneven tire wear can be caused by a couple of things. Worn suspension and steering com-ponents, improper tire inflation or wheel misalignment are some possibilities. The most common cause is worn steering or loose suspension components. When you have worn parts this can also change the vehicle's alignment. Both tire over-inflation and under-inflation can cause uneven wear. For a tire to roll down the road with the least resistance, it must be aligned to the road, parallel to the other three wheels, straight with the chassis and accurately inflated. When you have a front wheel drive vehicle, both the front and rear wheel alignment are adjustable. My suggestion is to take your vehicle to your technician and have your front steering and suspension components checked and then talk to your technician for wheel alignment. An educated technician should be able to tell by the way your tires are wearing what is causing the tire wearing condition.

Q. At about 55 to 60 m.p.h. I feel a shake in my steering wheel. What could cause this?

A. The first thing to look at would be the tires. You could possibly have one or more tires either out of balance or the actual belt of the tire may be separating. If the tires are OK, the next step would be to have a front end inspection for any worn components. I have a feeling by the way you described the shake being felt in the steering wheel that a tire problem will show up.

Q. My front end shimmies especially at low speeds. Does this mean I need a front end alignment?

A. Not necessarily. Alignments are usually performed to cure a pulling condition or to correct poor handling. If your car shakes or shimmies as you are driving, chances are it's caused by a worn tire or defective tread structure. It also can be due to a faulty front end component. Have your front end inspected. Your technician will road test the vehicle. They should inspect tie rods and ball joints for excessive wear. He or she will most likely inspect your tires for worn/uneven areas and for belt separation. If you do need new tires or have a worn end component then an alignment will usually be performed once these items are replaced.

"Good Transmission Questions…"

Q. I have a 1994 Honda Accord with a manual transmission. The clutch is starting to slip, especially after driving for a while. Does this mean I need a new clutch?

A. Your vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic clutch system, which means that there is no way to adjust the clutch linkage. On a manual transmission system as the clutch disc wears it reduces the thickness of the disc material. This reduces the amount of force that the pressure plate can apply to push the disc against the flywheel. If your vehicle has over 65,000 miles chances are it’s just worn out. When you have it replaced the technician should carefully check to make sure the disc has not been damaged by the abuse (in which case the disc would smell burnt) or by oil contamination. If your engine has a leak in that area it could prematurely damage your clutch. You will also want to make sure that when your technician replaces your clutch components (typically clutch disc, pressure plate and throw-out bearing) that the flywheel is machined. This helps ensure a long lifetime for your new parts.

Q. I have a 1990 Chevy Conversion Van and last week the transmission would not shift out of second gear. I checked the fluid level and, it was full. A friend told me it might be my computer?

A. You did not say if your van had overdrive or not. I will assume that it is an overdrive (4 speed) transmission. The first thing that I would look at, after confirming the transmission fluid level and condition (is the color pink or brownish), is the detent cable. This cable runs from the throttle body to the transmission. It tells the transmission how far you are pushing the throttle. If this cable is broken or disconnected it will affect the upshifts on the particular transmission. A computer does not cause this problem. On this model the only thing the computer controls is the torque converter lock up.

Q. I have a 1997 GMC C1500 Truck, when I pull my camper in hot weather, transmission fluid comes out of the vent hole. What can I do to solve this problem?

A. The reason the fluid is overflowing is that your transmission is getting hot, the fluid expands and has no where else to go. This may cause problems down the road creating seal and gasket leaks. You need to have an auxiliary cooler installed to help keep the fluid at a more acceptable temperature. This will also help preserve the life of your transmission. Most repair facility’s or perhaps a camper dealer should be able to outfit your truck with the proper size auxiliary cooler.

"Good Windshield Questions…"

Q. My windshield has been chipped from a rock that flew off a passing gravel truck. My insurance man says they'll repair it but not replace the windshield. I wonder if a repair is satisfactory or should I insist on a new windshield?

A. Most insurance companies will repair rather than replace when the damage is no bigger than a quarter and not in the line of vision. Benefits of this new repair technology include savings in time and expense. A repair costs about $50 vs. an average $250 for windshield replacement. And there's a lot to be said for preserving the original factory seal around the glass.

Q. I recently replaced my windshield wiper blades but they still streak. What can I do to correct this?

A. Over a period of time your windshield will develop a build up of film from waxes from car washes and road dirt. To clean this film off--wet your windshield, sprinkle it with scouring powder called Bon Ami â ( This is the only scouring powder that will not scratch glass! ) Wash the window thoroughly and also wipe down the edges of the wiper blades. Rinse thoroughly. This should help keep your wipers from streaking.

"Good Miscellaneous Automotive Questions…"

A. The first question I would ask is how poor is poor? Your technician needs to know this information. If your vehicle usually gets 40 MPG and now only gets 20 MPG I’m sure that there is a cause and a solution. I would suggest that for the next month you log your exact mileage and fuel usage. You’ll then be able to determine what is normal for your car. In the meantime, if your car is running poorly or you have a rotten egg smell coming from your exhaust I suggest you take it to a repair shop immediately before it causes permanent damage to various components.

Q. My car is equipped with automatic air ride suspension. At times my car does not sit level and I can hear a pump running. What could be wrong?

A. The automatic air ride suspension was some car manufacturer's solution to varying road and driving conditions. They are great systems when they work! However when they don't they can be costly. The shocks, struts or air bags actually have a small electric motor to inflate or deflate the system as the need arises. If one or more of the shocks, struts or air bags develop a leak the vehicle can sit uneven. The noise you are hearing is the motor or pump trying to compensate for the leak. It is advisable to get this repaired as soon as you can so that other components are not damaged.

Q. I have a 1994 Pontiac with 75,000 miles and have been told that the catalytic converter needs replacing. I have never had a vehicle that needed the converter replaced -- what could have made it go bad?

A. Most newer vehicles do not have converter problems until 100,000 miles or better so this is unusual. The cause of most converter replacement is due to overheating from unburned fuel in the exhaust. We have also seen where converters can rust out or be damaged externally. Some original equipment converters are covered 8 years/80000 miles so you may want to check with your local GM dealer for possible warranty. Many independent shops can place this part at a reasonable cost. Once you have the converter replaced, you need to find out what caused it to go bad so that your new one does not get damaged.

Q. My car is seven years old. I'm trying to decide if I should keep my car or get a new one . . . What should I do?

A. This is a tough decision that my customers face every day. With the price of new cars soaring, if you are satisfied with your present car it's a good idea to find out just what kind of condition it's in.

There are comprehensive vehicle inspection programs in place throughout the country, but if you can't locate one in your area, I would suggest that you talk to your regular technician. Explain to him or her what you want to do. Ask that they perform a thorough inspection of your vehicle.

They should check your brake condition (all four wheels), inspect your steering and suspension components front and rear, an electrical system test, visual inspection under the hood, hoses, belts, fluid levels and condition, inspect the undercarriage--exhaust performance, computer check for trouble codes.

This evaluation should take at least two to three hours to perform. When finished, have enough time available to discuss the outcome of the inspection.

Armed with this information as a consumer, you can now make an educated decision about whether to keep your present car or purchase a new one.

Q. Do I have the right to ask what brand of parts a repair shop used on my car?

A. When you take your vehicle to a repair shop for repair, you should not only get an itemized bill with part number and brand name, but it should have a separate line item which should include labor for everything that was performed on your vehicle. The best advice I can give you is to find a shop that does this--gives you a detailed invoice of what was performed and what exact parts were replaced. You should be offered to see or take your old parts if you want to. It's also great if the shop can document if there is anything else your vehicle may need in the future, that way you can budget ahead for future needs.

Q. What can I do to get my car ready for summer?

A. Especially in hot weather driving, it is important that your oil is fresh and clean and the proper weight for summer temperatures. Have your oil and filter changed. Make sure your air cleaner element is not clogged with dirt and debris. Check in front of your radiator to make sure there are no left over leaves and winter grime in front of it. You can use a garden hose to clean this area. Check your records to see how long it's been since your fuel filter has been replaced. Every 15,000 miles is the recommended mileage span for today's cars. Check your tire pressure. Proper inflation is essential for even tire wear and low tires can also affect fuel mileage. Fill your washer fluid bottle; dry dusty days are ahead. Clean or replace your wiper blades for clear vision. Check and fill all other fluid levels, transmission fluid, coolant (do this with the engine cold), brake fluid, power steering fluid. Have a friend help you check your lights to make sure they are all in working order. Finally on a nice summer day find a shady spot to give your car a good cleaning and wax. You and your car will both feel better

source of information and photo's taken from doityourself.com