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Prepare Your Car for the Seasons:
Why
Cars Won't Start
Despite dramatic Improvements in engines and
fuels, "no starts" continue to be
the most common reason for emergency road
service. A vehicle in good mechanical
condition, however, should start under
virtually any conditions. For an engine to
start it needs:
- A strong electrical
system, including battery and starter,
capable of providing adequate current to
the ignition system.
- A fuel system capable
of providing the correct air/fuel mixture
to the cylinders.
- An ignition system
capable of delivering adequate voltage to
the spark plugs.
- Spark plugs capable
of making a spark when current reaches
them.
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| If all of the above are in order, if the
internal parts of the engine are in good
condition and the engine oil is clean and of
the right grade for cold weather operation,
the engine should start.
Many of the above
factors are interdependent, however. Even a
brand new battery, for example, cannot start a
car that needs a tune-up.
Newer cars often require
diagnosis and tune-up to catch those hidden
"glitches that can let you down when you
least expect it.
Preventive
maintenance pays
Throughout the summer,
your car may have performed at its best, no
bitter cold to contend with and driving was
easy. Now comes the first cold snap and/or the
big blizzard. Cars and owners are put to the
test.
This website offers
suggestions on making winter driving a safer,
more enjoyable experience. It all begins with
preventive maintenance of the vehicle.
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The Electrical
System
In cold weather, the battery
loses about half its strength while the demands on the
battery increase. Oil is thicker so the engine doesn't
turn over as easily.
Other drains on the electrical
system: driving with the lights on, greater use of the
heater blower, defrosters, and electric window
defrosters. Windshield wipers and washers work
overtime.
Be sure your battery cables and
connections are in good condition. Have the charging
circuit checked if you've noticed the battery getting
weak.
Under cold conditions the
demands on the electrical system may reduce the
voltage available from the ignition system while the
voltage required to fire your spark plugs increases.
This causes "ignition bankruptcy": no spark
at the spark plugs and the engine won't start.
All components of all systems
must be In good working order to ensure dependable
starting and performance.
Sometimes something as simple as
corroded battery cable connections or a loose
alternator belt will cause the symptoms of a weak
battery.
Be sure your trouble is not in
the starting mechanism itself which, again, can act
like a dead battery.
TIP: The greatest
percentage of emergency road service calls come when
the first severe cold snap hits. Don't be a statistic:
be prepared.
The Ignition
System
Just at the time the battery output decreases and the
engine places an added drain on the starter, the
ignition system is called upon for an extra source of
ignition voltage to fire the spark plugs. It may take
up to 47,000 volts to ignite the fuel/air charge
inside the cylinders. If ignition components are
performing at their peak, "ignition
bankruptcy" is averted. Periodic tune-ups,
maintenance and repairs are an important part of
preventive maintenance.
The basic tune-up includes
engine analysis plus replacement, as needed, of
ignition, fuel system and emission control components.
On older engines with
distributor points and condenser, these are replaced
along with the spark plugs and, if necessary, the
spark plug wires, cap, rotor and other worn
components.
Also check your spark plug wires
for "wear and tear." Replace them if they
look bad or have high mileage on them.
Most cars have computer
controlled electronic ignition systems which eliminate
several of the components commonly replaced on older
cars.
Whether the system be of the
older type described above or state-of-the-art
electronically controlled ignition, periodic checks
and maintenance are required.
An engine which runs poorly
usually will start poorly if gas mileage falls, the
engine hesitates or any other malfunction is noted,
get the car checked and serviced.
Emission
Control
Three decades ago, the PCV
(positive crankcase ventilation) valve, one of the
first emission control devices, was easy to check and
replace. Today's sophisticated mechanisms, however,
defy most "home mechanics".
Their various controls and
computers improve vehicles' efficiency and
performance, but they still require periodic checking,
adjusting and maintenance for optimum performance.
When malfunctioning, they can cause hard starting and
poor performance.
The Fuel System
Dirt is enemy number one of your
car's fuel system. A common cause of hard starting and
poor operation is accumulation of sediment and/or
other deposits in the tiny orifices which meter the
fuel to the engine.
While better grades of fuel
contain detergents that can help fuel systems clean,
an occasional application of additives can help remove
deposits. Routine replacement of fuel filters prevents
sediment in the gas tank from disabling the fuel
system.
The
Cooling System
The weatherman's first announcement of a
severe cold snap can create a jam-up of cars
at every available service outlet.
Avoid the rush by
preparing your cooling system well in advance
of the weatherman's warning. Check and/or
replace anti-freeze. Flush and test the
system, and inspect hoses, clamps and belts.
If you've noticed the
engine running cool (not much heater output)
have the thermostat checked.
Other cooling system
components that can cause trouble: the water
pump, fan clutch and, on newer cars, the
electrically driven fan and/or switches that
interact between the cooling system and other
engine systems.
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Under The Car
Described as "where the car
meets the road", the tires, steering, suspension
and braking systems all become especially important in
winter weather. Ice and snow demand firm traction,
steering and ride control.
Wheel balancing and alignment,
plus a careful under-car inspection, are a wise
investment before winter's first blast.
NOTE: A careful
examination of exhaust components should be a part of
the under-car inspection. Leaking exhaust is
especially dangerous in winter, when windows are
closed.
Lubrication,
Fluids and Filters
Standard practice in the fail is to give the
car its seasonal service, including oil
change, lubrication (where applicable) and
replacement of filters oil, air and fuel. if
your car requires a lighter grade of oil in
winter, now's the time to change.
Change transmission
fluid and filter. Most transmission
specialists recommend changing more frequently
than is called for In the owner's manual. The
rule of thumb: every 2 years or 25,000 miles.
Severe service driving requires more frequent
changes.
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Seeing and
Being Seen
The National Safety Council says
motor vehicle death rates are sharply higher at night,
which is reason enough to check all lights, windshield
wipers and washers.
Consider winter blades (with
flexible rubber boots) to prevent icing-up of wipers.
Weak or inoperative defrosters
can be treacherous and should be put in good working
order before cold weather.
Your Blizzard
Emergency Kit
Many of us can recall news stories of families
stranded in their cars in heavy snow. Some motorists,
in desperation, have abandoned their vehicles, tried
to walk and died. Others, equipped with an emergency
kit, have survived the ordeal. In addition to a good
spare tire (properly Inflated and a working jack, your
trunk might Include some or all of the following:
- Bottled water
- Matches & candles
- Blankets Window scraper
- Paper towels
- Spare wiper blades
- A red flag or cloth
- Flashlight w/spare batteries
- Basic tools (screwdriver,
pliers, adjustable wrench)
- Extra windshield washer fluid
- Traction chains or a bag of
salt or sand
- Canned fruits or nuts and a
can opener
- An emergency supply of any
medication needed regularly
- Extra warm clothes (mittens,
overshoes, and ski caps)
- Transistor radio with spare
battery
- First aid kit Flares
- Jumper cables
- Small shovel
TIPS
Keep your gas tank over half
full for added safety. In extremely cold climates
consider installing an engine and/or battery heater.
- Anti-freeze protection should
be at least -25 degrees (50/50 mix 35 degrees).
- Occasionally pour in a can of
fuel line anti-freeze in very cold weather.
- On cold, windy nights, park
with the front of the car away from the wind.
- On manual transmission cars,
depress the clutch before engaging the starter so
it doesn't have to turn the transmission gears
which are immersed in 90W gear oil.
- Door lock defroster is
useless locked inside the car. Keep it in the
house, purse, pockets or desk.
- Tires deflate as temperature
decreases one pound of pressure for every 10
degrees of temperature drop.
- A 75 watt light bulb under
the hood near the battery can help keep the chill
off of the battery; this could help a cold start.
source
of information taken from doityourself.com |
